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El Bandit
31st December 2010, 02:20 PM
I thought it time to tackle fitting the new sprockets that Johhnyboy kindly gave me recently.

I have been unable to glean much information about how to tackle the rear sprocket so I am looking for some advice from anyone who has done this job.

It would seem that to get the rear sprocket carrier off I have to move the axle to the left a bit.

I thin k this is done by removeing the rubber cover on the right which I have managed to do. I have also removed three small allen bolts but thats as far as I have got. How do I get the axle to shift over a little. Even though I have removed the small Allen Bolts I can't seem to move the piece that they were in.

I have attached some pictures indicating where I am stuck.

I have just had a nother look at it and it looks like it maybe twists off. Is this correct?

If so what happens with parts 15,16 and 17?

I have also attached a second diagram showing bits that might need to be referred to.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Happy New Year.

fastboy450rs
31st December 2010, 02:24 PM
just undo that piece with a big pair of swan necks then u can remove the c clip and move ur axle to the left to allow to then remove the c clip on the sprocket carrier so u can then slide off sprocket and carrier

El Bandit
31st December 2010, 03:18 PM
Cheers for the quick answer.

Just been out and tried to move it with a drill bit but that ain't going to do it.

Anyone in the Basingstoke area able to lend me a large pair of Swan Necks.

secret solo
31st December 2010, 03:18 PM
Can you not just unbolt the sprocket from the carrier and slide it off over the axle?

johnnyboy
31st December 2010, 03:31 PM
Can you not just unbolt the sprocket from the carrier and slide it off over the axle?

No unless you fit a KFX item as the dopey QZ one has a fully round hole
I just cut mine off with a hacksaw lol


From memory you still have to remove the hub as well

secret solo
31st December 2010, 03:35 PM
some great design team they have there then?? lol

RED PRED
31st December 2010, 03:38 PM
The only `swan neck` I have access to is for testing flows on water mains !!!
You can borrow my 18" stilsons if you like LOL

nelly
31st December 2010, 05:12 PM
i have a pair of adjustables that go up to 50mm if you want to borrow them

El Bandit
31st December 2010, 05:40 PM
Cheers Neil,

I think it needs a special tool.

The thing is three sided so a standard pair of pliers won't do. I think. Plus it has three holes in it which look like some sort of tooth is engeged in them to give grip.

I have a large adjustable so I will look at that tomorrow and see if its any good.

El Bandit
31st December 2010, 05:42 PM
It now seems to be a case of finding the right tool.

RED PRED
31st December 2010, 06:29 PM
You could try Mark at Kamar Motorsport in Lower Froyle, he is a QZ dealer

http://www.kamarmotorsport.co.uk/

johnnyboy
31st December 2010, 06:54 PM
It now seems to be a case of finding the right tool.

I have one some where lol
If its being a mare give it a bloody good beating with a big nylon hammer
They are not done up that tightly due to the dumb design and a few blobs of weld and a bit of grinding soon has a C spanner made for future use

Where do you live as I would do it for you in about 15 minutes flat if you could get it to my house

El Bandit
31st December 2010, 07:00 PM
Oakley near Basingstoke.

I will have another go tomorrow when the daylight comes back.

By the way is it difficult to line up the holes for the allen bolts when its reassembled.

fastboy450rs
31st December 2010, 08:08 PM
if u mean the 3 small ones they dont align they just pull the nut and inner nut together if u know wat i mean to prevent from it undoing itself supposedly!!

El Bandit
31st December 2010, 09:15 PM
I think I get you. No doubt it will be a little more obvious when I get it in bits.

RED PRED
1st January 2011, 09:25 AM
Where do you live as I would do it for you in about 15 minutes flat if you could get it to my house

Now there is an offer you cant refuse Nick :amen::clapping:

El Bandit
1st January 2011, 09:46 AM
That is a good offer. I shall have a crack at it today and see how I get on.

One further bit of advice. When I get to the large circlip is there a knack for removing that? It looks a pretty solid piece of kit.

fastboy450rs
1st January 2011, 10:27 AM
no nack simples lol,u will see when u strip it also a bit of advice when refitting the sprocket and disc carriers i allways put some silicone sealant on the splines this avoids any water riding through the splines into the bearings!

El Bandit
1st January 2011, 11:45 AM
Right. Got it all in bits. Time to clean it up and then re assemble.

Photos to follow...

El Bandit
1st January 2011, 11:46 AM
no nack simples lol,u will see when u strip it also a bit of advice when refitting the sprocket and disc carriers i allways put some silicone sealant on the splines this avoids any water riding through the splines into the bearings!

Good point that. Seems the manufacturers had done that as I had a bit tio remove.

El Bandit
1st January 2011, 03:59 PM
As promised heres a photo of the rear cog ready to remove.

This might help someone in the future.

Firstly I loosened off the large three sided bolt on the right hand side. About 5mm. I didn't need to remove it fully. Number 1 in the picture. The tool I ended up using was a car oil filter wrench with some rag protecting the part.

Secondly the whole rear axle is pushed to the left. Direction of red arrow. This allows you to tap the rear sprocket assembly across to the right by about 5 mm. Allowing access to the circlip, number 2, which is holding the rear cog in place. Circlip can be removed with any pair of circlip pliers, nothing special.

Once all the left rear hub is removed the cog can be taken off and replaced with a new one. Prior to re assembling silicone sealent was placed on the splines at 3.

The front cog was a simple job compared to this. In fact it seemed too simple, probably because the front cog seems to be designed with a little amout of free play where it sits. Both the old cog and new one was like this so I guess its right.

Lastly I was suprised to find that the chain needed a lot of adjustment. Could someone confirm that about 40mm of free play is sufficient for the trails. I am a bit wary of chains after snapping one last year on a bike that had been overtightened by a dealer.

johnnyboy
1st January 2011, 04:29 PM
Get a couple of mates to sit on the quad to compress the rear end as much as possible or even a ratchet strap and see how much slack you have then
Cant always trust the unloaded slack

RED PRED
1st January 2011, 05:16 PM
Every time I have changed sprockets for different sizes I have had to take a link or two out of the chain .

El Bandit
23rd January 2011, 05:59 PM
Every time I have changed sprockets for different sizes I have had to take a link or two out of the chain .

Graham,

Some advice. Did you do this by prising the link out with a screwdriver then grinding off a couple of links.

I am considering doing this during the week.

Will the old link connector be reusable?

RED PRED
23rd January 2011, 06:48 PM
Thats about the size of it Nick, I have re-used split chain links, in fact the only time I have had a split link break was on a new one !!
What you will need to do is make sure that your chain adjuster is fully slack ie shortest distance between the two sprockets because you would not want to cut your chain then find out you have no adjustment on it when you reconnect it up again !!